![]() Lower body elements look like rubber, hinting at inherent ruggedness. It’s like a tall five-door hatchback, with an arched roofline, tall hood, and attractively sculpted bodysides that don’t convey a slab-sided look. This translates to comparatively swift takeoffs, while a deep overdrive sixth gear promises relaxed, thrifty cruising on the open road.ĭespite having the footprint of a subcompact car, the Trax measures 66 inches tall. The 6-speed automatic transmission has a broad range of ratios. And speaking of ho-hum, the styling is bland.īeneath the hood, a 1.4-liter turbocharged four-cylinder engine makes 138 horsepower and 148 pound-feet of torque. Except for some new colors, nothing has changed for 2016.Īs expected, fuel economy is a prominent benefit, while acceleration falls on the ho-hum side. Trax was introduced for 2015 as Chevrolet’s second smallest model, while Canadian dealers had the Trax for two years before its U.S. Both models are built upon the architecture of the Chevrolet Sonic sedan. The Chevrolet Trax is basically a fewer-frills version of the Buick Encore. Next time it comes up, I think I’ll pull over, pop the hood and see if the actuator is stuck in an open position.The Chevrolet Trax is a five-passenger hatchback with a spacious and versatile interior. But it I try to trip it and drive hard up long hills, I can get it to come up after about 10 to 20 minutes of driving. ![]() I went several days after clearing the code without it coming back up. If I drive gently enough, I don’t seem to trip the code. It’s a slight catch but I’m wondering if that’s what causes the CEL to be triggered. The other point seems to be just before being completely closed tight. I doubt that it ever gets open that far though. One would be the extreme wide open where it actually sticks in place and has to be jiggled free. I also checked the wastegate lever again this morning and though it moves freely for most of its range, I did feel it catch at two points. ![]() If I have a leak it must be above 10 PSI. Most of the time boost is under about 7 PSI. The highest boost I’ve read driving is about 13 PSI but that is very hard to get to. I couldn’t hear any hissing so there is no obvious leaks. According to the video, it shouldnt’ take less than 20 seconds to go from 20 down to 10 PSI and timing mine, it took about 28 seconds to go from 18 down to 10 psi. However, even at only 18 PSI there is no way it’s holding between 16 and 18 PSI for more than 60 seconds. I sprayed some PB Blaster on it and it seems to swing just fine. I also disconnected the waste gate actuator to see if the lever mighit be stuck. It seems as if the cars computer is turning off the boost, but not telling me why it’s doing this. If the turbo was broken, it would not be able to produce any boost. If it were a vacuum leak, I would think that I would never have boost. I did not clear the code, the engine light was still on, and I had boost. I tried stopping the car, turning off the engine and then turn it back on to see if the boost would come back and it did. Then a few minutes later the CEL came back on and the boost was gone. Funny thing is, I went and cleared the code while I was driving and the boost came back. When I would try to accelerate, vacuum would go down to “0” but no boost. But then later the CEL came back on and I lost my boost. I was getting adequate amounts of boost when accelerating. I cleared the code and the car seemed to run fine. So, I connected my ODBII and ran the torque app to observe the boost level. ![]() It would still accelerate but very sluggishly. I noticed at the time, that the car did accelerated poorly as if there was no boost. Recently, my CEL came on and when I checked the code, it came up with P0299, Turbo Underboost. I’ve been trying to research this, but I’m having difficulty finding a solution.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |